Symbolism writ large – La Sagrada Familia

You can’t walk through a centimeter of La Sagrada Familia without tripping over a symbol. I gasped when I entered the apse through a side door, along with hordes of other tourists on an overcast morning in Barcelona. It is unlike anything I have ever seen – a forest of archetypes, a symphony of stained glass.

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Mohammed and I each had audio tours so we went our own ways. Good thing, too, because I kept stopping to sit down, or turn and retrace my steps for another look a something I’d already seen. Because of the ongoing construction noise, and the chattering in multiple languages, I quickly switched to noise cancellation headphones to listen to the tour – and I was well rewarded.

Explaining that the columns actually represent trees, and the elaborate ceiling carvings a sacred canopy, or that the four main pillars supporting the nave are in honor of the four gospels, or that the main facade begun by Antoni Gaudi in 1893 pictures all of the main events in the lives of the Holy Family, only scratches the surface. This basilica, consecrated by Pope Benedict XVI in 2010, is awash with artistic and spiritual symbols, and the indomitable spirit of Catalonia itself.

I say this with only a basic knowledge of the history of this region. But I’ve seen enough to realize that the Spanish Civil War – and countless earlier fights for survival and independence – have deeply imprinted Catalan culture. The fascists bombed this cathedral – thankfully Gaudi was already dead when this happened in the late 1930s – and destroyed much of what had already been built over the course of almost 60 years.

But Gaudi had left detailed plans for his successors and the work has carried on now for a total of 134 years since the foundation stone was laid in 1882 by the original architect, Francisco de Paula del Villar. A year and a half later, Gaudi took over the project, and Gaudi, to put it all too modestly, was a genius.

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Synthesize is one way of putting it. The engineering required to support the tons of rock and glass in this masterpiece boggles my brain. But the artistic vision of Gaudi and those who followed him is nothing short of other worldly.

The basilica has 4,500 square meters of space where people can worship – up to 8,000 of them. And construction crews with immense cranes are currently working on ten soaring towers – slated for completion in 2026 – 100 years after Gaudi’s untimely death in a streetcar accident. Ultimately, a total of 18 towers will announce the grandeur of this place, visible to the roiling city around it. Like cathedrals of old, La Sagrada Familia will span generations of builders.

Gaudi’s vision extended to the design of pulpits and candelabras, and even a small school to provide education for the children of the original laborers built in the shadow of the cathedral. If you visit, don’t miss a centimeter of it, including the extensive crypt where Gaudi is buried, and where his original models for the construction can be viewed, as well as a video of the dedication ceremony that raised chill bumps on my arms. The pomp and circumstance befits this spiritual and artistic masterpiece.

From the sublime to the somewhat mundane, although equally sublime – food! If you’ve been following this blog, you know I love to eat. And so does my partner. So after spending almost two hours in the basilica, we headed for a repast at Oporto, a wonderful Portuguese restaurant a few blocks from the cathedral.

Here we found peace and quiet (somehow other tourists are not yet hip to this spot) and the most amazing olives and cheese, not to mention  Portuguese dishes like Picu de Gau and traditional biscuit cake, a crunchier version of Tiramisu. Yum!

We capped our adventure with a stroll through the park at Placa de Sagrada Familia, a leafy oasis in a complex, bustling, irresistible city.

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